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Central Standard

Food Critics: The Best Throwback Dishes in Kansas City

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Food trends come and go, but some dishes cycle back, either in traditional or updated form. Like meatloaf — would you like it with a ketchup glaze or topped with Marsala sauce? Whether you consider it retro, classic or timeless, these old-timey dishes are making a comeback on local menus.

On this week's show, we visit the mother-son duo behind Chai Shai, authors Frank and Jayni Carey discuss the changing tastes of Kansans, then our Food Critics Charles Ferruzza, Emily Farris and Bonjwing Lee uncover the best retro dishes in Kansas City.

Charles Ferruzza, The Pitch:

  • Dreamy Orange Jello Surprise and Waldorf salad at Bloomsbury Bistro in the Mission Road Antique Mall.
  • Club sandwiches, the staple of country clubs and hotel room service menus for decades. Sosa's 39th Street Diner has a very nice (and inexpensive) version.
  • Pimento cheese sandwiches are making a big comeback. Char Bar serves a great version; it's a spicier pimento cheese and it's grilled. Pimento cheese is known as the "caviar of the South."
  • The lemon meringue pie at Rye. It's probably the best in the city; it's just tart enough and the meringue is so beautiful.
  • The most classic, retro cocktail list (and the best and most extensive) is at Princess Gardens. It's maybe bigger than the food list. They have all the weird ones from the tiki days that call for lots and lots of rum or fruit juices, like mai tais and scorpions.
  • Englewood Cafe in Independence has the best selection of homemade pies, including ones that you don't see on menus ever anymore. like boysenberry and gooseberry.

Emily Farris, Feed Me Creative:

  • Deviled eggs at Westside Local — Consistently good, always fresh.
  • Meatloaf at Providence New American Kitchen — Made in a small loaf pan.
  • Chocolate malt at Winstead's
  • Crispy egg at Novel
  • Beef and mushroom pot pie at Pot Pie the combo of starch and fat and textures, soupy stewey rich inside that's steamy and hot, and a flaky pie crust a wonderful combination.

Bonjwing Lee, Ulterior Epicure:

  • The “Chimichanga del Dia” at Port Fonda — The "chimichanga of the day." My favorite had chicken and rice with cheese.
  • Chipped beef on toast at Rye.
  • Chicken Cordon Bleu at Grunauer. Kind of European and classic. It's stuffed with ham and cheese; it's good.

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Central Standard Food & DrinkBest Food KC