It’s been an especially active summer in the Kansas City food scene.
KCUR’s Food Critics — Charles Ferruzza, Jill Silva and Jenny Vergara — have been keeping an eye on what’s new and noteworthy in local dining. They shared the highlights with guest host Brian Ellison on Friday’s Central Standard.
1. The American Restaurant. After 40-plus years, The American (as we know it) will close at the end of the year. But it’ll reopen next year as a pop-up concept and special event space with guest chefs.
Then, yesterday, Michael Corvino, executive chef at The American, announced that he’ll be opening the Corvino Supper Club and Tasting Room at 18th and Walnut in 2017. His restaurant will have two different spaces: a dining room/bar and a private dining room with tasting menus and more.
The Food Critics took a moment to pay homage to The American … and the concept of fine dining, which, they said, is a little more casual now.
“It’s been a pivotal restaurant in the Kansas City scene for just so many years, with so many of our top chefs going through there,” said Silva.
“I think The American Restaurant has been the greatest charitable gift that the Hall family has ever given to Kansas City, because the rumor has always been that The American never made any money, and it was an extremely expensive restaurant from day one,” said Ferruzza.
“The fine dining days of our parents’ generation is gone,” he added. “In terms of The American, until relatively recently, you absolutely had to wear a jacket to eat there. There was always a very, very formal serving style.”
Ferruzza continued: “The fine dining I grew up experiencing … there was a great theatrical quality and I would compare that kind of fine dining to opera. Where now, it’s more like a Broadway show.”
2. Ça Va and Julep had problems with their restaurant licenses this summer. Because of state and municipal liquor laws, 50% of profits have to be from the sale of food.
“In this particular case, Ça Va and Julep sell a good amount of food,” said Ferruzza. “The problem is they’re tiny restaurants and there’s no way that, for example, they’re going to sell the same amount of food as the Westport Café.”
As to why they don’t have a tavern license (which doesn’t have a food component), Ferruzza said that Regulated Industries isn’t issuing tavern licenses anymore because of the saturation of that type of license in Westport.
“The Missouri liquor laws need to be changed,” Ferruzza added. “It used to be one-size-fits-all, and that just doesn’t work anymore.”
3. Cirque du Sucre, the new dessert truck from pastry chef Natasha Goellner. According to Silva, Goellner and her truck are starting to do pop-ups and events. One recent event was at the Columbus Park Ramen Shop, where she served up patbingsu, a Korean shaved ice dessert with toppings like red beans, matcha powder, condensed milk and more.
“They also do very straightforward ice cream, although the flavors might not be so straightforward,” Silva said. “I had an orange blossom. There was also popcorn and sweet potato ice cream, and different kinds of waffle cones, so that was a lot of fun.”
4. Brown & Loe. The newest addition to the City Market is this new restaurant from Harry Murphy, owner of Harry’s Country Club.
“It’s a really beautiful space,” said Vergara. “The food is really good and it’s reasonably priced. There’s something for everyone on that menu.”
5. The Oliver. When República on the Plaza closed, The Oliver opened in its place just three weeks later.
“It’s a much wiser concept,” said Ferruzza, who also said that he liked The Oliver's Sloppy Joes. “I like to go to restaurants where I can find things I would never thing of making at home.”
Jen Chen is associate producer for KCUR's Central Standard. Reach out to her at jen@kcur.org.