Even with more than 90 barbecue restaurants across the metro, Gerald Dunn still figured there was room for his flavor profile on the Kansas City food scene.
But before opening Dunn Deal BBQ in Grandview, he made a pilgrimage of sorts, stopping in to see legendary Ollie Gates. He reveres the local barbecue pioneer and wanted to pay homage.
“I’m the new kid on the block. When people think barbecue, they automatically think Gates,” Dunn said. “Mr. Gates told me it is hard work. He knows me as a jazz musician but I let him know this wasn’t just on a whim. He hasn’t had my barbecue, but if he does it will be an honor.”
Just a couple months after opening at 506 Main St., on the western edge of Grandview, Dunn has fans lined up for 11 a.m. Friday and Saturday openings — lines that continue until Dunn sells out about 4 p.m.
He grew up in east Texas where his grandfather was a pitmaster for a country store, churches, and family reunions.
Dunn always wondered when his grandfather slept, he said, noting he also grew all the family’s produce: greens, peanuts, corn, sugar cane, and a variety of beans and peas. His grandfather raised feed for the cows and hogs, and kept chickens.
“During those overnight cooks, those guys just liked to stay up and talk about the good old days when they were younger. It was a family bonding event, a community event,” Dunn said. “I used to like to start the fires for them. We didn’t have charcoal; we cut our own hickory wood. For me it’s very therapeutic.”
Outside of barbecue, Dunn is director of entertainment at the American Jazz Museum, a jazz musician (saxophone) and radio personality. But just like his grandfather, he caters different events.
“I got a good feel for what people like,” he said. “I lean more toward the Southwest flavors with the different chilis. The guajillo puts a really pretty color on pork and chicken.”
A few years ago, Dunn brought up his trailer from Texas and was featured for one week in Grandview’s “32 weeks of food trucks” set up in front of city hall.
“Everyone loved it. It’s Texas/Kansas City barbecue,” said David Carranza, director of economic development for Grandview. “We struck up a good friendship so I said, ‘Let me look for a place for you.’”
Significant barbecue competition in the immediate area is lacking. Jack Stack Barbecue in Martin City is about three miles away. BB’s Lawnside Blues & BBQ and Snead’s Bar-B-Q both about eight miles from downtown Grandview, according to MapQuest.
Lueck’s Barbecue & General Store had previously operated in the Main Street space in Grandview. But its owner and pitmaster died in early 2023.
Carranza had been an entrepreneur in Arizona. He advised starting slowly, and to reach out to the Missouri Small Business Development Center at the University of Missouri-Kansas City and the Kansas City district office of the U.S. Small Business Administration for advice, which Dunn plans to do.
The Texan-turned-Grandview resident starts smoking brisket out back of the restaurant on Thursday nights. He returns before daybreak.
He uses his grandfather’s technique, and his seasonings. But they have been tweaked over the generations. His mother added a few more layers — mustard, cinnamon, cumin — giving it “more of an identity.”
“I would say, ‘Grandfather, what’s in this?’ He would say, ‘It’s magic dust and you have to know when to put it on so it can work its magic,’” Dunn recalled.
He prefers a tomato base for his sauce, and hickory and white oak. He looks to Texas for Blue Ribbon sugar cane (the variety his grandfather grew), saying Louisiana sugar cane is a little more pungent.
“I treat it like I treat music. You are constantly learning,” he said. “You have to know how to adjust. It takes time, you can’t rush it. Allow the meat to cook properly. You really have to know how to utilize your seasoning and how the smoke complements that.”
Dunn is currently offering a limited menu: one meat and two sides for $16; two meats and two sides for $25.
This weekend, customers will have a choice of pulled pork, brisket, chicken, ribs, turkey and sausage. They can also buy meat by the pound. For sides, he has french fries, coleslaw, potato salad and baked beans.
His daughter, a twin named Marissa Hill, makes the banana pudding. Oxtail might be the next new thing on the menu.
Shawn Hughes makes the drive from Midtown Kansas City weekly to support his longtime friend. On a recent Friday, he ordered two pounds of brisket and two leg quarters. He didn’t plan to share.
Dunn has the best brisket in town, Hughes said, offering up a hearty endorsement.
“You’re going to start a war,” Hughes said with a big laugh. “Ollie’s mother and my grandmother were best friends.” (Gates couldn’t be reached for comment.)
Another friend of Dunn’s was taking orders and payments at the front counter, while Dunn was filling to-go containers in back. Customers waited patiently with many discussing what they ordered and what they will get next time while taking in Dunn’s trophies and blue ribbons.
He’s using savings and has a silent partner to finance the business. Most advertising is word-of-mouth. Friends also helped out: Ramona Davis helped with website development and social media; and Suzetta Parks Pennington and Kevin Morris with marketing and public relations.
Dunn still journeys to area barbecues for their particular “flavor profiles,” he said.
“I still go to Gates. I love the Gates family. Then there’s Arthur Bryant’s, Joe’s. I just tried Wolfepack,” he said. “Oh, I love barbecue. I probably eat more grilled and smoked meats than I should.”
This story was originally published by Startland News, a fellow member of the KC Media Collective.
